Cantilever Chair
Elegant but simple, this cantilevered birch chair has a trestle base that is glued and screwed together. The simple knife-edge cushions are supported by a canvas sling that stretches from the chair s back rail to its front rail.
Though the primary base components on the chair pictured on page 22 have been lower from particular, multi-laminated Finnish plywood, we advocate that for the sake of value and availability you work with normal birch or a similar hardwood.
TOOLS YOU'LL NEED:
pencil • measuring tape ■ sq. • protractor ■ handsaw • file • drill ■ plug cutter. C-clamps • screwdriver • sandpaper and finishing instruments ■ stitching equipment ■ stitching machine.
Useful instruments include a radial-arm or desk saw. an influence sander, and pipe or bar clamps.
MATERIALS LIST:
A-D plywood 12 flathead screws.
pan-head screws, washers 8 flathead screws. 3" by 12 White glue Wood filler
Danish oil, boiled linseed oil, turpentine, and satin polyurethane finish yards of chair canvas, 30" huge
Kilos of shredded foam
three yards of upholstery material, 36" wide Matching polyester thread
buttons,
6 upholstery buttons
HERE'S HOW
Begin by reducing the pieces to size. You won't need a radial-arm or desk noticed if your vendor sells "dimensioned" hardwood (surfaced to the proper thicknesses and widths). In any other case, you may take the wooden to a cabinetmaker to have it dimensioned, Should you do the slicing your self, remember to use a sq. to mark and test all cuts. Use the following schedule.
As well as, cut the plywood to 20” by 21". You will additionally want two plywood scraps, each 11/2" by 20", for fastening the canvas to the frame. And make a further lower at one finish of the (C) and (D) pieces: lower each one off at a 65° angle, marking the minimize first with a protractor and square.
Mark placements of the (C) pieces on the (A) pieces, then glue and clamp them in place. (Put scraps beneath the jaws of the clamps to maintain them from denting the wood.) Use a sq. to make sure the pieces are exactly perpendicular.
While the glue dries, make the frame from pieces (E) and (F). Working on heavy duty drawer slides a flat surface, glue and screw collectively these items, counter boring the three" screws for ornamental wooden plugs. Round off the comers with a file or sander.
Attach (B) to(C) items, utilizing glue and 1 %" flathead screws, counter bored for wooden plugs. As soon as piece (B) is in place, add (D) the identical manner you attached (C) to (A)
Next, be part of the seat frame-items (E) and (F)-to the uprights, [C) and (D). Glue the pieces and clamp them together. You possibly can counter bore pilot holes and screw the pieces collectively both now or after the glue dries.
Both reduce short dowel lengths or reduce plugs from hardwood scraps with a protractor and square.
Mark placements of the (C) pieces on the (A) pieces, then glue and clamp them in place. (Put scraps beneath the jaws of the clamps to keep them from denting the wood.) Use a square to ensure the pieces are exactly perpendicular.
Sand all surfaces, rounding the sides slightly. To duplicate the end on the chair pictured on page 22, sand with 120-grit sandpaper until smooth. Then apply and reapply Danish oil, moist sanding it into the wood with 220-grit wet-and- dry abrasive paper after each coat. Next, combine equal components boiled linseed oil, satin polyurethane varnish, and turpentine. Brush this combination onto the wooden and wet sand it with 400-grit paper. Wipe it off, and repeat functions till you have got the end you wish.
Cut and hem the 43" by 20" sling. Attach both ends to the body as shown in drawing 25-2. Each cushions are merely 4"-thick knife- edge cushions. The again is 23" by 26"; the seat is 27" by 26". Connect upholstery buttons.
Though the primary base components on the chair pictured on page 22 have been lower from particular, multi-laminated Finnish plywood, we advocate that for the sake of value and availability you work with normal birch or a similar hardwood.
TOOLS YOU'LL NEED:
pencil • measuring tape ■ sq. • protractor ■ handsaw • file • drill ■ plug cutter. C-clamps • screwdriver • sandpaper and finishing instruments ■ stitching equipment ■ stitching machine.
Useful instruments include a radial-arm or desk saw. an influence sander, and pipe or bar clamps.
MATERIALS LIST:
A-D plywood 12 flathead screws.
pan-head screws, washers 8 flathead screws. 3" by 12 White glue Wood filler
Danish oil, boiled linseed oil, turpentine, and satin polyurethane finish yards of chair canvas, 30" huge
Kilos of shredded foam
three yards of upholstery material, 36" wide Matching polyester thread
buttons,
6 upholstery buttons
HERE'S HOW
Begin by reducing the pieces to size. You won't need a radial-arm or desk noticed if your vendor sells "dimensioned" hardwood (surfaced to the proper thicknesses and widths). In any other case, you may take the wooden to a cabinetmaker to have it dimensioned, Should you do the slicing your self, remember to use a sq. to mark and test all cuts. Use the following schedule.
As well as, cut the plywood to 20” by 21". You will additionally want two plywood scraps, each 11/2" by 20", for fastening the canvas to the frame. And make a further lower at one finish of the (C) and (D) pieces: lower each one off at a 65° angle, marking the minimize first with a protractor and square.
Mark placements of the (C) pieces on the (A) pieces, then glue and clamp them in place. (Put scraps beneath the jaws of the clamps to maintain them from denting the wood.) Use a sq. to make sure the pieces are exactly perpendicular.
While the glue dries, make the frame from pieces (E) and (F). Working on heavy duty drawer slides a flat surface, glue and screw collectively these items, counter boring the three" screws for ornamental wooden plugs. Round off the comers with a file or sander.
Attach (B) to(C) items, utilizing glue and 1 %" flathead screws, counter bored for wooden plugs. As soon as piece (B) is in place, add (D) the identical manner you attached (C) to (A)
Next, be part of the seat frame-items (E) and (F)-to the uprights, [C) and (D). Glue the pieces and clamp them together. You possibly can counter bore pilot holes and screw the pieces collectively both now or after the glue dries.
Both reduce short dowel lengths or reduce plugs from hardwood scraps with a protractor and square.
Mark placements of the (C) pieces on the (A) pieces, then glue and clamp them in place. (Put scraps beneath the jaws of the clamps to keep them from denting the wood.) Use a square to ensure the pieces are exactly perpendicular.
Sand all surfaces, rounding the sides slightly. To duplicate the end on the chair pictured on page 22, sand with 120-grit sandpaper until smooth. Then apply and reapply Danish oil, moist sanding it into the wood with 220-grit wet-and- dry abrasive paper after each coat. Next, combine equal components boiled linseed oil, satin polyurethane varnish, and turpentine. Brush this combination onto the wooden and wet sand it with 400-grit paper. Wipe it off, and repeat functions till you have got the end you wish.
Cut and hem the 43" by 20" sling. Attach both ends to the body as shown in drawing 25-2. Each cushions are merely 4"-thick knife- edge cushions. The again is 23" by 26"; the seat is 27" by 26". Connect upholstery buttons.
